OK I know Iraq is utterly totally off the vast majority of people's itineraries for the immediate future.
But I am pretty sure I have heard of some extreme adventurous types going there and following the "ask the locals which parts really should be avoided" rule when they get there.
For instance most people wouldn't go to Pakistan or Colombia now either for safety reasons, yet following this rule many adventurous travellers go to these destinations and have an amazing time.
So what I want to know is if you are even tougher than those guys and know what you are doing is it possible to visit any parts of Iraq at all, or is it strictly a case of "join the army" if you want to go.
Please don't submit answers not aimed specifically at extreme travellers.