I checked the website Tor-Einar linked frequently throughout summer and autumn, and (from memory) found:
- July-mid August: 100–150 per day
- Late August, early September: 60–120 per day
- mid-late September: 30–60 per day
- October: 10–40 per day
- Early November: 1–10 per day (either the road is still open, or those are all superjeeps who travel whether the road is open or not)
- 13 November onward: 0, road closed
This is in both directions.
In the event, the very first car that passed me offered me a ride, even without me raising my thumb.