I want to drive from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas but I've heard of people being pulled over by corrupt cops and being hassled by people on the peninsula. I speak fluent Spanish and I'm pretty street smart. Should I be worried?
The mordida (nibble) is unfortunately deeply ingrained in Mexico, although mostly a feature of local police and not the federal police or the military, and there are various anti-corruption initiatives at work in the larger cities.
Generally, the interaction involves being pulled over for a traffic offense like speeding or not wearing a seat belt. The driver is warned of some exaggerated penalty for some exaggerated offense, then suggested to get the fine reduced for a consideration of a few hundred pesos. There are very few stories, however, of more serious harassment. A dirty cop is out for cash, not blood, so a play for time may encourage him to move on to another target.
There are plain vanilla ticket traps all over, as there are in Canada and the U.S., and legitimate checkpoints set up by the military and federal police, so it's good to be aware of local laws (e.g. tinted windows are illegal in Tijuana unless you have proof of manufacturer installation) and to follow the standard tips for dealing with law enforcement in any country:
On federal highways and in the larger cities (Tijuana, Ensenada, etc.) you will have written traffic tickets; elsewhere, however, the officer will take your license and escort you to the police station. Any solicitation for a bribe will take place before you get to the police station, of course, so if you can play for time, the dirty cop will get impatient and let you go. Knowing Spanish helps mainly in that the dirty cop would fear that you know of recourse to the Sindicata or other authority.
If you do go to the station, you will meet the juez calificador (a kind of municipal judge) who will review the charge. If you feel the charge is unfair, you can appeal to the judge. There is a discount on the ticket if you pay early.
If you have been solicited for a bribe, by all means report it to the authorities. The Sindicata (think: Internal Affairs), the local mayor, the governor, and the consul would be a good start.
Baja Insider magazine has an interesting 2010 article with some tips on avoiding or minimizing your mordida exposure: http://www.bajainsider.com/driving-baja/policecorruptionbaja.html
Above all, remember that the greatest risks of driving in Baja California come not from drug cartels, banditos, or corrupt police, but from the road itself. The roads are often narrow, isolated, in disrepair or under construction, or being crossed by cattle or horses, and likely some combination of the above. It is best to stick to the toll roads (which are better maintained and controlled), to drive during daylight hours only, to keep your fuel topped off, and to drive slowly.
I hitchhiked from northern Baja to La Paz. I had no problems.
Outside of Tijuana and the resorts in Cabo, Baja is mostly desolate and remote, and I would not expect any problems with the police. Instead, expect the desolate beauty of the desert, and hospitality and respect from the locals (assuming you show the same).
In Tijuana itself, I'd guess that anything could happen.
Your ability to speak Spanish fluently will help greatly should you get into trouble.
These are some tips based on my own experience driving extensively in Mexico (although not so much specifically along the Baja peninsula)
*The only time I argued with an officer was when I was threatened with being arrested for having a torn vehicle registration (See #2 below). I knew I was in the right, and I read the rules directly to him, which said unregistered vehicles were subject to a fine and impounding, but not jail.
Following is a summary of my run-ins with the police (and in one case, psuedo-police) in Mexico.
My experiences in Baja and BCS have run directly contrary to the folklore about corruption in Mexico. I drove the peninsula, eschewing warnings against driving at night, with only a few regrets.
It is a much longer drive than it appears on a map. Infrastructure is uneven. You may assume that it's a very relaxed, two day trip if you're accustomed to the interstate highway system in the US. There are no straight shots and average speed may be only 35mph. Over 1100 miles, that's quite a journey.
My realistic fears at night would include fatigue on very narrow, elevated roads leading to a minor wreck, and the presence of cattle reclining on the warm road surfaces at night. A smaller car is better. Popular cars, even if they're completely stock, look like Baja Beetles. The VW Crossfox is practical, as are very small trucks with good suspension. Federales are present at checkpoints, polite, professional, and usually speak some English.
If you drive at night, you will see some of the most beautiful and tranquil landscapes, sunrises and sunsets, that your imagination could conjure. The people in the smaller towns do not anticipate tourists, they are usually kind and humble and excited to meet strangers, I didn't encounter much xenophobia.
It is my opinion that the worst parts of BCS are safer than the best parts of California. Crime is usually a story about poverty, and very annoying, but seldom violent.
There have been a number of measures in the last couple of years to reform law enforcement and the legal system, a national Gendarmerie (paramilitary police force after the model of France) has been established. BCS was already pretty good, some of this is symbolic but it does give Mexico cause to take pride.
Well-known tourist areas tend to be the areas of highest crime. If you are looking for it, you will find it.