It turns out that even though "Cash advance fee - ATM" has "ATM" in it, it doesn't mean that it's being charged by the ATM you're withdrawing from. It's still being charged by the bank of your home country.
And depending on your bank, that fee can be minimized by having a positive balance in your credit card account. This isn't just for cards specially marketed at globehoppers and globeshoppers (mentioned in an answer to a similar question), but even for ordinary credit cards:
Help minimise and avoid fees
An administrative charge of 2% of the value of the transaction will
apply to each cash advance made on your card account, where your
account has a negative (debit) balance after the transaction has been
posted to it. A minimum charge of $2.50 and a maximum charge of $150
will apply in these circumstances. Where your account has a positive
(credit) balance after the transaction has been posted to it, a charge
of $2.50 will apply to the transaction. Any such charge will appear on
your credit card statement directly below the relevant cash advance.
A $2.50 charge if your account is positive, versus $20 if the account is negative? That's a bit of a difference!